Black Island Beaches

Winding down Mt Reynisfjall on route 1 towards the picturesque village of Vík, the first of three rock pillars comes into view. Set in the coastal waters less than a kilometre from shore, these wonders of nature are the jewel in the crown of the Mýrdalur area. Legend has it that these pillars were once mythical trolls, turned to stone by the rising of the sun as they advanced to shore. Access to Vík, Iceland's most southerly village, is itself the result of geological upheaval. Once completely isolated by towering basalt cliffs, the eruption of the nearby Katla volcano in the 1600's pushed the shore forward, creating an opening to the east over the cliffs.

These days Vík and the surrounding area does a brisk trade catering to the outdoors enthusiast. Vík's gloriously windswept black beach runs for several kilometres south of the village and is ideal for bracing evening walks. A stark expanse of crystalline black sand, it is generally considered one of the most beautiful island beaches in the world. Towering over the village to the north is the majestic Mýrdalsjökull, a 700-square-kilometre glacier, at the centre of which lies the Katla volcano, which last erupted in 1918. The foothills leading up to the glacier are dotted with excellent trails for hiking while the glacier summit affords spectacular views of the surrounding area.

The area is also rich in bird life with Mt. Reynisfjall and the basalt cliffs a haven for a wide variety of species. The sandy beach is an important breeding ground for the endangered arctic tern, a site that attracts not just tourists but wildlife professionals. About 30 kilometres west of the village lies Skógafoss, one of the most spectacular of Iceland's many waterfalls, one in a series of 20 that span the Skógaá river it spills its load from a height of 60 metres and, according to local legend, is the site of a treasure chest left beneath the waters of the fall by Þrasi, Vík's first settler. A stone's throw from the water is one of Iceland's finest museums detailing, through artefacts and reconstructed dwelling houses, Icelandic rural life of the past.

When the notorious Mýrdalian rain and fog descend, head for the Icelandic Saga Centre in nearby Hvolvöllur. The Mýrdalur area is steeped in Icelandic literary history as the setting for Njálssaga, the most renowned of Iceland's famous medieval literary works. The centre provides guided tours to areas of interest related to this classic feud saga. Another rainy day option is the cultural centre at Brydebúð in the village of Vík itself.

No visit to Vík is complete without dropping by at Víkurprjón, Iceland's oldest and probably best-known knitwear producers. Víkurprjón create traditional sweaters, gloves, hats and scarves using pure Icelandic sheep's wool, producing a range of designs using original colours and traditional methods. Relatively light and water resistant they are ideal for chilly or drizzly Icelandic evenings and are a popular tourist purchase.

Though you can pack a lot into a day trip to Vík í Mýrdalur, a more leisurely overnight stay is well catered for, from the upmarket Hotel Edda complete with nine-hole golf course, to comfortable country guesthouses and the budget hostels in Vík and Skógar. If you want to get closer still to nature, there are well-serviced campsites close to the Saga Centre in Hvolsvöllur and within earshot of the magnificent Skógafoss in Skógar. - John Boyce. Photo by Valgarður Gíslason.

Tourist Information, Brydebúð, 870 Vík, Tel. +354 487 1395, www.vik.is

Víkurprjón, Austurvegi 20, 870 Vík, Tel. +354 487 1250

Hótel Edda, Austurvegi 18, 870 Vík, Tel. +354 444 4840